Flat Tire and Faro

About 40 miles north of Frances Lake, we got a flat tire. I fixed it quickly enough and was happy I had checked that I had proper tools before I left home, but then I no longer had a spare. Watson Lake was over 100 miles behind us and Ross River was over 100 miles ahead. I flagged down a passing car and was assured someone in Ross River could fix my flat.

The confluence of the Pelly and Hoole Rivers looked very fishy, but I continued to Ross River. The service station said the tire fixer was gone for five days, working at the mine, and I needed to continue to Carmacks, another 104 miles. I stopped to look at the view in Lapie Canyon and then continued another 32 miles to Faro, where a highway worker stopped us and said there  was a forest fire ahead.

After spending the night in Faro, I visited the interpretive center and was pleasantly surprised the town maintenance crew could fix my flat for a fee. They did. Problem solved, kind of. The gravel is sometimes sharp gravel. When it is crushed, little arrowheads are formed that randomly insert themselves into tires and cause a flat. Nothing to do about it except carry spares. I met someone who had two flats at once and heard a story about someone with three flats.

Money Creek

Stopped on the Campbell Highway to look at Simpson Lake and Frances River, but continued to Frances Lake Campground. The campground at Simpson Lake was empty, so I was surprised to see so many people at Frances. Turns out Frances is a popular destination and several large RVs park there each season.

Fished Money Creek which runs into the lake just north of the campground. Nice, clear grayling water. Caught lots of fish, largest at 17 inces (42 cm). Around 3 p.m. each day, there was a baetis mayfly hatch. Above the bridge, the beavers are at work and they are fun to watch, even if they do put the fish down.

Most people have boats and troll the lake for lake trout. The lake is somewhat unusual in that it forms a "U." It is typically long and thin, a result of glacial scraping.

Watson Lake

A good place to get provisions, Watson Lake has two small lakes in the center of town and Watson Lake itself north of town by the airport. After driving 613 miles of the Alaska Highway, it was time to do something different; try the Campbell Highway. The Campbell has a reputation as unsuitable for RVs. Certainly the highway consturction north of town made it so. The uncompacted dirt was difficult to navigate.

Driving the Alaska Highway

I probably missed an issue of National Geographic, but most of the people driving the Alaska Highway are driving the Alaska Highway. They are not going to Fairbanks to visit relatives or to Anchorage to start school. They are not wanting to fish or hunt or even go to a specific landmark, lake or glacier. They are not backpackers, kayakers, climbers or cyclists. They are driving.

All the talk is about 16 hours of straight driving, 500 klicks (kilometers) per day and "I drove straight through from Ft. Nelson." "Do they have diesel or only gas?" There are vans, campers, occasional tent campers and cyclists. But mostly, it's big rigs: coaches, trailers, 5th wheels, and RVs. Many pull cars, enclosed trailers or boats. Many are larger and longer than Greyhound buses and semi-rigs. They can't be easily backed-up so they drive the main roads and "pull-throughs." At an information office, one tourist interested in finding a restaurant asked for one with RV parking rather than Canadian, Western, or Chinese fare.

In the morning, the generators are going at 6 a.m. and the diesel engines are warming up by 7 a.m. By 8 am. the parade of vehicles has departed and the campground is empty. Around 5 p.m. they start pulling in and keep arriving until about 10 p.m.

It's a stereotypical joke, but many of the coaches ARE driven by 80-year-old men. Maybe it's a Great Generation thing conceived during World War II consturction times. Whatever, maybe if I make it to 80, I will be happy to drive a bus the thousands of miles.

Black bear in clover

This black bear stopped eating clover long enough to take a look at me. Note the swarm of mosquitoes flying around it. I took this photo along the Alaska Highway in the Yukon.

Liard Hot Springs

The hot springs are justifiably popular. The campgrounds are roomy and comfortable. I tried to fish Smith River Falls, but a forest fire recently destroyed the access and made the area dangerous from falling timber. I fished the Huele Creek near the Liard Bridge and caught my first grayling. The creek runs clear and the fish were stacked up in a hole where the clear water ran into the muddy Liard. They took Elk Hair Caddis and Prince Nymphs about size 16 (just like normal). I also fished the falls at Teeter Creek, about a 2 km hike through a mosquito-infested area. The grayling were in a pool below the falls and eagerly took dry fly caddis imitations. Whenever my fly didn't get stuck on branches, I got a take.

I also drove about 10 miles on a rough 4WD trail along the Liard, but aside from negotiating the creeks, hills and wash-outs, the tour wasn't exciting.

end of the Rockies

Muncho Lake is in the Terminal Range, the end of the Rocky Mountains. The Rockies don't extend into Alaska; they stop in northern B.C. The alluvial fans, vast flows of rock and gravel disappeared as I drove north and were replaced with conifer forest, lower elevations and relatively flat land.

I crossed the Liard River and arrived in the Provincial Park and campground complete with natural hot springs. The weather at the lower elevation was warmer and after one last rain, the sun came out.

Muncho Lake

In the morning, I pulled up stakes and continued north, stopping at Summit Lake, a picturesque if barren spot exposed to the wind. Arrived at Munchon lake for a beautiful sunny afternoon. In the morning, I searched for access to either the inlet or outlet of the 7 km lake. On the southern end, past the airstrip, I followed a stream flowing through a culvert under the highway to a creek that flowed into the river that flowed into the lake. I could not find any fish in the creeks, but was rewarded with a good-sized lake trout where the river merged into the lake. But, again, the rain blew in with large gusts of wind. I got chilled at the high elevation and followed  moose tracks through the bog back to the highway.

It rained all night and in the morning it was cold and wet. I broke camp and continued north, passing bear and bison.

farNorth, 62 degrees

On July 24, after 3,200 miles of travel, turned the 4Runner to the south. Coordinates N 62 degrees 16'22" W 136degrees 20' 33"

Tetsa River

Beyond Ft. Nelson, the highway ascends into the Rocky Mountains. I stopped at a Provincial Park on the Tetsa River. It was relatively dry for the afternoon, but started raining again the next morning.

I tried fishing and hooked a few small fish, but a rainstorm moved in and made conditions above and below water imposible. The mosquitoes at the campground made things worse.

Alaska Highway

From Chetwynd, I drove east to Dawson Creek, milepost zero of the Alaska Highway and then drove to Fort St. John. I crossed several muddy rivers that normally would hold some interest: Halfway, Buckinghorse, Beatton, Sikanni Chief, and Prophet.

Continued driving to Fort Nelson. This section of the highway is long, flat and not particularly interesting. It was 45 degrees F  and raining. When asked when it would stop raining, the hotel manager replied, "never." When I told that to the waitress, she said, "You are lucky it isn't snowing."

Stellako River

When it started raining on the Nechako River, I drove to take a look at the Stellako, one of the renowned B.C. trout fly-fishing streams. According to a local, the bite was off because of the rain. The stoneflys had been hatching, but no longer. According to B.C. fishing regs, non-resident aliens must purchase a $20 per day license in addition to a regular license.

I also learned that the salmon runs are better in August than July--and therefore decided to return east to Prince George and start the "loop" on the east side. Drove to Chetwynd. Spent a day looking at rivers: the Moberly, Peace, Pine, Murray and Sukunka. Unfortunately, the rain came down even harder. The rivers were high and muddy with entire trees floating down in the main current. The Tumbling Falls are looked like a good base for fishing the area. Local info suggests the Burnt River, a tributary of the Sukunka is especially good for fly-fishing.

Nechako River

Along the Kenney Dam Rd. from Vanderhoof to the dam is an interpretive kiosk. Near there is a trail to the West. After hiking about an hour, you arrive to a junction. Take the trail down to the right to the Nechako River. The beginning of the trail is well marked, but has many places with fallen trees. The lower trail is very difficult and has not been maintained for at least five years. The markers are far apart and some are on fallen trees.

Once I arrived in the canyon, I felt like I was in the middle of nowhere, the great North of B.C. I was concerned about finding the markers for my way home. But, the water looked inviting and I soon caught five rainbows on an elk Hair Caddis. I explored a long, curving riffle, but that wasn't as productive as the pools between carved rock walls. The day had been cloudy and turned bright in the late afternoon. The bite was off except whitefish.

If you take the hike, I recommend taking a compass or GPS, going with another person, and taking insect replellent (better a potective shirt). There were many signs of bear, so make noise or wear bear bells.

The river is flood-controlled and large amounts of water are let out to keep the Fraser River cold enough for salmon, so check locally (usually water release occurs middle of July to middle of August).

Nechako, again

Fished north side of Nechako River, below the falls. Walked down steep terrain to get below Falls. Caught dozens of rainbows 12" to 16". Spent more time fighting and releasing than casting and hooking. Used #5 floating/sinking tip line and a muddler minnow pattern. Maybe bait fish were stunned by the Falls and the big fish were used to feeding on the smaller fish. Probably other patterns would have worked.

Beautiful spot. The mist from the Falls kept me cool. The canyon stretched to the south and the main river wound to the north. Kingfishers twittered about while an eagle hovered overhead, looking for food.

N54' 00'

Just north of my home in Oregon lies a large sign, 45th parallel. This are is the 54th, a nine degree difference.

B.C. Fishing #1

A fish broke my tippet on my second cast. And then attacked my drift indicator. Several broke off in the current--and then I landed my first B.C. rainbow. My wife had just landed her fish. A double!

Below the falls, where the Cheslata River turns into the Nechako River is a pool full of wild rainbows. The water from the lake plunges through rapids, a canyon and into a pool. Green caddis and yellow stoneflys were in abundance. Green elk hair caddis, stimulators, Royal Wolff patterns, prince nymphs, brassies and copper johns all worked well.

There were so many fish, there were more fish than mosquitoes.

To get there, park at the campground and follow the loop trail. Be prepared for steep, slippery slopes. Take a camera.

upNorth route

I've wanted to take a road trip up north for sometime. I've flown to Alaska a bunch of times and driven to southern B.C. In British Columbia, the northern part of the province is regarded as "the North" (the east side is "the Interior").

I plan to visit the north by vehicle to sight see, fish and camp, an outdoor, wilderness adventure. I expect to see glaciers, rivers and mountains, eagles and bears. I hope to catch trout, salmon, char, grayling and pike.

I probably will go the Prince George, Whitehorse and Prince Rupert. From Prince George, there is a loop, up the Alaska Highway and back down on the west side via the Cassiar Highway. Maybe, take sidetrips to Whitehorse, Haines, Aitlan, and even a bit of the Yukon.

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new trip, upNorth

1300 road miles, Knewstubb Lake, about 60 kilometers south of Vanderhoof, west of Prince George, British Columbia (B.C.). Bright, sunny morning. Wood stove starting to take the chill out of the cabin. Percolated Sumatran coffee tastes good. It was light at 3:30 a.m. Earlier it was kind of dark. I could see stars and the glistening, yellow light of the setting moon rippling like oozing lava upon the lake. As we drove the bumpy gravel road to get here, we came upon a large brown-colored bear that looked at us and then jumped into the woods. Earlier we saw deer and rabbits. Pilleated woodpeckers are nesting in a tree behind the cabin. The birds are the size of crows, but have a white collar below a flaming red head.

Getting started--From Oregon, we drove 1300 miles to get here. It took four days. We  left Monday. The amount of gear we planned to take was far larger than our vehicle. With considerable reluctance, we left beind the float tubes, fins, neoprene waders, face masks, snorkels, extra tent and some clothing. Even leaving these items behind, the Toyota 4Runner was packed to the gills. In Seattle, we stopped at REI headquarters and bought a Yakima Rocket Box, a cargo box to put on the roof. With the sleeping bags and lighter gear above, I could see out the the back once again. I couldn't feel much difference in the vehicle aerodynamics.

We stayed the first night in Everett, WA only about 300 miles from home. The border crossing included a surprisingly long and comprehensive inquiry into the purpose of our visit. The two-month duration and lack of a specific destination may have triggered a flag. Ultimately, it ended with questions about what fish we had previously caught in Canada and suggestions for future fishing locations.

We stayed the second night at Cache Creek, a small town above the Fraser River. The Fraser is the largest river in British Columbia. The first pioneers followed the Fraser and the first Canadian trans-continental railroad was built through here. It heads in the vast central interior with runoff from the Rockies and ends in Vancouver. The canyon is spectacular. The river is powerful with many rapids. The walls are a myriad of colors--red, orange, black, white, tan, and yellow.From Cache Creek, we drove to Prince George, the northern B.C. provincial center, with a population of 80,000. I felt like I had finally arrived in northern B.C., the North.

trip summary for upNorth

I had been to Alaska and southern British Columbia on several different trips and wanted to see northern B.C. and the Yukon Territory. I traveled during July and August, drove my 4Runner and covered 6,500 miles over eight weeks.

I saw lots of lakes, rivers, valleys, mountains, glaciers and wildlife. I spotted the following wildlife: grizzly and black bear, moose, deer, lynx, red fox, arctic fox, bison, Stone sheep, mountain goat, bald eagle, golden eagle, least squirrel, arctic chipmunk, American beaver, mountain beaver, coyote, least weasel and Arctic hare.

I went fishing and caught Arctic grayling, lake trout, rainbow, bull trout, pink salmon and sockeye salmon. Some of the best places were: Nechako River, Frances Lake, Faro area, Dease River, Kispiox River and the Babine River.

For sheer beauty and diversity of outdoor experience, the Atlin area was the best.

• Although I drove 1,000 miles on the Alaska Highway, it was all in Canada. I spent only three hours in Alaska.


• With the northern summer sun, it really is light all the time. It doesn't get dark at night and there are rarely stars.


• Mosquitoes are horrendous, large and numerous


• B.C. and Yukon were on fire. Forests were burning everywhere. I moved several times to escape the smoke.


• The Yukon is remote; there are few services. You need to plan carefully in advance.


• Canadians generally are very friendly, hospitable and helpful.

Route--I drove to Prince George (about the geographic center of B.C.) and made a wide loop, going up the east side, picking up the Alaska Highway, crossing the Rockies, then into the Yukon, went north on the Campbell Highway, returned south to Whitehorse, crossed back into B.C., visited Atlin, picked up the Cassiar Highway going south through Dease Lake, went west into the Nass Valley, picked up the Yellowhead Highway in Terrace, visited Babine Lake, returned to Prince George and returned the remaining 1,000 miles home.

Debrief--This trip covered a lot of miles, maybe too many. It's three days solid driving just to get to the beginning of the tourist route. Although I am glad to experience the Alaska Highway, I would not seek it again. I really like the North where the sun shines all day, bit it is a long way and probably is better accessed with a truck, trailer and boat rather than a SUV. Next time, I would pick a more focused (smaller) area such as the Lake District, Tumbler Falls, Atlin or the Campbell Highway and stay put for longer.

For camping, there are limited opportunities up North for car camping off the highway. More often than not, I found my tent nestled among R.V.s, coaches and campers rather than trees. Backpacking is an option, but consider the bears.